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News and events around the Burgundy region, Bourgogne Franche-Comté
'Wish you were here'
Despite social media, the old fashioned postcard is still good to receive. The Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB) has created a special postcard listing 84 appellations in the Bourgogne region and it is free. You can request them online from the BIVB and send them to all your friends and family - it would look good framed on the kitchen wall too. Order your cards
A Guinness World Record
Once an aviator, there's no turning back. Ask Michel Pont from Château de Savigny-lès-Beaune who is now listed in the Guinness World Records for his collection of jet fighters including Russian MiGs, British Jaguars and French Mirages.
"I'm ex-military" he explained, "from the Air Force in Dijon, so I had the opportunity to meet pilots and see the planes back then, that's how I caught the bug. In the military bases, when planes were declared unfit for service, they were put on sale. So, 30 years ago, I started buying these planes to save them from being destroyed."
Michel Pont collects many other things too. It is one of the most fascinating days out in the region particularly for the lads. More...
'Wellness' takes on a new meaning
Travel writer Antony Peregrine indulges in the good things in life and visits Burgundy 'where cheese is blessed, wine is divine and gluttony is godly'. Follow his search for 'wellness' which, he says, 'comes not from hammams and herbal tea but expansive meals with wine and cheese, well-rooted in a plump, pleasant land sanctioned by the saintly. Read his article in The Telegraph.
The Cook's Atelier
Published by Abrams Books
Marjorie Taylor and Kendall Smith Franchini, mother and daughter originally from Phoenix Arizona, have been running the Cook's Atelier cookery school in Beaune for ten years. Following in the footsteps of Julia Childs and Anne Willans they bring together Burgundy's traditional cuisine in their first cookbook, just published. The recipes are classic, adding a modern twist, the tools of the trade are emphasised, the markets and the artisan food producers are discussed with anecdotes about their time in Burgundy. The beautiful photography makes this a book any cook would treasure. This is French lifestyle with all the romance and seduction associated with it, you can almost smell the freshly baked Madeleines and the brewing coffee.
It's a rap
Auxerre was put on the social media map last week with over 150,000 visitors watching Weez-Dom's video. This rapper, alias Morgan Habbada, got together with some chums to make the video around the town, posted it on Facebook, and is somewhat surprised by its success. This waiter, in AJ Auxerre colours, filmed along the quay, is creating quite a buzz. Watch the footage
Another snippet from Connexion magazine - it warns that if you are driving in or through Paris this summer in a car eleven years old or more, don't forget that you have to have a Crit'Air sticker. When the scheme was launched last year, the police gave a period of grace but now the full enforcement is underway and the number of fines has shot through the roof. The magazine says: 'Under Crit'Air rules, vehicles registered before 1997, and those bearing a Crit'Air 5 sticker can no longer drive in an area of Paris inside the périphérique between 8am and 8pm Monday to Friday. Other vehicles can also be banned from entering the controlled zone depending on air pollution levels at the time.
The stickers are also compulsory in several other French cities, including Paris, Lille, Lyon, Toulouse, and Grenoble - while other cities and departments are expected to adopt the scheme.
wine events for the holidays
With national holidays in profusion during May, here are the BIVB's suggestions to get out and about and enjoy the wines of the region
a summer of music
The 2018 calendar, What's On in Burgundy, includes enticing and varied music events across the region, many of which are teamed with wine. One of the annual favourites is the Vézelay festival, Rencontres Musicales de Vézelay, at the end of August and the programme is now up and booking has opened on the Cité de la Voix website. Faure's Requiem in the Basilica is just one of the treats in store.
on the chateaux scene
The Château de Clos du Vougeot has seen many grand events in its 800 year old history, since founded in the 12thC by the monks at the Abbaye de Citeaux. In those days Christmas, Easter, birth, marriage and death, harvest and Saints' days were all marked by spit roasting a hog and supping beer and wine much as we do today.
The festivities are the theme of the latest exhibition in the cellar of the château, portrayed in 30 decorative panels. The exhibition runs until November 30 and entry to the château is 7.50 euros for adults, 2.50 euros for children. Under 8 years f.o.c.
Art - fact and fantasy
For their annual art exhibitions, Château d'Ancy-le-Franc is featuring this year the work of Michel Ognier and Julien Pinault. Each takes the subject ' between heaven and earth', interpreted in very different ways. Ognier gets his inspiration of landscapes from storms and changing light. Above right is his painting entitled 'After the Rain'. Pinault is a fantasist who portrays small individuals in a colourful and peaceful universe. Both exhibitions run until the middle of October at the château and entry is included in the admission ticket.
film - a goodie coming up
Coming from a pastoral background in Burgundy, the writer Colette was thrown into a very different world when she married Willy her wayward publisher in Paris. The film 'Gigi' filmed in 1958 made Colette world renowned and her story has now been told again, 2018 style, in a film by Wash Westmoreland which received highly favourable reviews at the Sundance Film Festival at the start of the year. The film 'Colette' stars Keira Knightley and Dominic West, with Eleanor Tomlinson too, and the critics describe it as 'fun, frothy and unmistakably feminist'.
Watch out for it in cinemas later in the year. The Colette Museum and the writer's birthplace are in St-Sauveur-en-Puisaye.
the mega rich list
In the April edition of Decanter magazine, Andrew Jefford laments the beginning of the 'era of billionaire ownership' in the Burgundy vineyards. He is talking about the Grand Cru domaines which have been bought up by the luxury brands such as Groupe Artémis which owns Christie's auction house, Stade Rennais Football Club and has controlling shares in Gucci for example. LVMH luxury goods, have also purchased as has Stan Kroenke, Arsenal football club owner. The sums of money we are talking about are eye-watering and local families will not be able to compete. Probably Jefford thinks, the quality of the wine will improve which will have a knock on effect of improving Burgundy wine as a whole but Grand Crus will be out of reach to all but the mega rich. More...
An Insight into Mystical France
With holidays and the season for property hunting coming up, Marilyn Floyde suggests setting off with a very special travel book, 'A Guide to Mystical France - Secrets, Mysteries, Sacred Sites' It will fuel the imagination of anyone who would like not just information but insight into the France beyond the clichés of food and wine
I love this sort of book. It was my constant companion while searching for a new home in France last year. If social media is to be believed, then there are many people from anglophone countries wanting to get their feet under the french ‘residency’ table before whatever deal the Brexit negotiations finally come up with by March 2019. Consequently lots of practical questions are under discussion as well as those preferential ‘tick boxes’ that people come up with on those “Escape to . .“ TV programmes. But for me the most important house purchase ‘box’ is often invisible and yet affects many people – sometimes so deeply that all previous criteria are thrown out of the window.
Broadly speaking it is the ‘feel’ of the house, impossible to define but you know when it’s there, and many people wouldn’t think about buying a new home without it. It encompasses that disgreeable cliché ‘the wow factor’, and concerns ambiance, and includes all the humanities: history, mythology, geography, literature, religion, the arts and cultural society, and contributes in no small measure to the intangible, dream-making factors that really inspire and influence decision-making. No-one can define another person’s ‘wow’. No-one can predict when or why those back-of-the-neck hairs stand up. But Nick Inman’s book, “Mystical France – Secrets, Mysteries, Sacred Sites ” grasps the intangible, and sets out before us fascinating esoteric facts about France; the context and meaning of your chosen location, and its relationship to the broader European heritage. Whatever your personal interests, aspects of this book can’t fail to grab your attention and imagination, and enhance your experiences of France, both present and future.
People have many reasons for wanting to move permanently to France. There are plenty of books that will guide you through wine regions, sport and leisure activities, historic battlegrounds, gastronomic centres, and political influences and trends. Everyone is probably now aware of the reasonableness of house prices and the consequent opportunity to acquire the kind of property which would be beyond their means in the UK. France is still the number one European holiday destination, and those seeking a new way of working life often see themselves as being able to develop new businesses within travel and tourism. All of these contemporary concerns are underpinned and enhanced by the contents of “Mystical France”.
“Mystical France” is visually very pleasing. There are full colour photographs on every page and side bars containing connected information. (Right, we show the pilgrims' boots at St Jean Pied de Port) End Notes provide additional practical guidance and bibliographic and other sources. The Index of Places is particularly useful. The book covers a time line from prehistory to modern day and within the Travel Guide section is grouped into geographical regions. There are also thematic sections linking aspects of mysticism to people, locations and their modern influences such as for example the impact of the Knights Templar on the modern day revival of the apprenticeship system of Compagnonnage.
This eclectic approach makes it a thoroughly appropriate reference book to dip into when travelling around France as a tourist, or a potential resident, or just researching particular topics of interest. Caves and cave art are to be found in many places, as are standing stones and megalithic monuments. France has many historic references to the Romans. Imagine, as I did years ago, finding out that the little road outside your house in Burgundy was in fact the route of the Via Agrippa – an ancient road of great importance stretching from Lyon to Boulogne. Then, through browsing Nick Inman’s book, tracing other important routes exposing the links to the modern landscape, buildings and places of worship, and the connections between art, design and modern mysticism (Millau viaduct; Créteil Cathedral).
Other topics include pilgrimage routes and shrines; sacred springs and ancient religions, monsters and gods; saints and sinners; alchemy, astrology and UFOs. (Did you know, for example that “France is the only country in the world with a state-funded, civil organisation tasked with collecting and investigating reports of unidentified aerial phenomena.”?) There may be some people who would dismiss such themes as far-fetched, but it is important to stress that “Mystical France” is an accessible and broad-based guide which neither promotes nor judges its content. Much of it forms a back story to the identity of France itself; the reason why so many people love the country. It’s certainly a book that everyone contemplating a permanent move should own; one that provides a sense of the overall depth of history and myth, the context and reason why living in France has remained in many peoples’ dreams for decades.
“Certain places have an effect on us at crucial times of our lives. They can, if we let them, wake us up".
A Guide to Mystical France: Secrets, Mysteries, Sacred Sites by Nick Inman, Lots more information about the book on Amazon.
© Marilyn Floyde, Author “King Arthur’s French Odyssey – Avallon in Burgundy”, BSF Publishing
See also Property for Sale in Burgundy
Milestones in Burgundy's Past
Three important buildings in Burgundy's history will be celebrating anniversaries this year, the Abbaye de Fontenay, 900 years; Château de Bussy-Rabutin, 400 years since the founder's birth; and La Grande Forge de Buffon, 250 years. Under the heading 'Epiques Epoques' the Côte d'Or Tourist Office will be announcing a variety of events over the summer to celebrate these monument's coming of age.
You could not get three more different men who first established these properties:
Bernard, the Cisterian monk who founded the abbey; the philandering Roger Bussy-Rabutin, expelled from the court of Louis and the naturalist Georges-Louis Leclerc, Count de Buffon. This week we look at the Forge de Buffon in Montbard.
Leclerc was born in Montbard in 1707 and at the age of seven he inherited an estate there from his godfather. Well set-up financially, as a young man he studied mathematics and mechanics, law and medicine in Paris and by the age of 32, he was appointed keeper of the Jardin du Roi (the royal botanical garden, now the Jardin des Plantes). He was encouraged to undertake a catalogue of the royal collections in natural history but this fertile thinker had a greater work in mind.
In the 1600s naturalists believed that the world was a few thousand years old where species were not interconnected. In the 1800s Darwin told of a world 'inconceivably old' where life evolved. Georges-Louis Leclerc's theories about creation fell between the two. His life's work was an encyclopedia of nature which he called, the Histoire naturelle, générale et particulière which eventually ran to 36 volumes on birds and quadrupeds - he had intended it to cover all three ' kingdoms' of nature but understandably that proved way too ambitious in his lifetime.
Leclerc worked from his estate at Buffon near Montbard. One of his inventions was to use the water to power a blast furnace, refinery and splitting mill, a very advanced idea at the time. The Forge is a historical monument, considered to be an important part of the industrial development of the Enlightenment. Apart from the mechanics of the forge which will appeal greatly to engineers, Buffon's work as a naturalist is on display and various exhibitions will be staged over the summer months. La Grande Forge de Buffon is open to the public from April 1 from 10.00 - 12.00 and 14.00 - 18.00.
Mozart's The Marriage of Figaro, Haydn's Creation and Rossini's The Barber of Seville are three of the well known works to be performed at this year's International Baroque Festival in Beaune which runs each weekend during July. The programme has just been announced and booking opens on March 5. This is one of the top events in Burgundy's calendar when visitors come from around Europe to attend the festival bringing a tremendous atmosphere to the town. See this year's programme.
Head for the fairway
It's an important year for golf in France with the Ryder Cup in Paris in September, only the second time that the championship has been played on continental Europe. If you are coming to watch the champions, extend your trip and try your hand on Burgundy's excellent golf courses, all within easy reach of the vineyards.
At Golf Hotel Château de Chailly (above) near Pouilly en Auxois, you can step out of bed and onto the golf course. The hotel is now under the new management of Tobias and Marco who built up a very successful business at Les Roches boutique bed and breakfast nearby. They have turned this into a holiday home for rental, available on HomeAway. With 45 rooms to manage at the château, two restaurants, the spa, tennis court and pool, plus the golf facilities, it's a new challenge. Check out the offers on the website - a golf and lunch package, for example, costs 79 euros per person when booked direct.
Stars shine in Burgundy
Hotly awaited this week has been the announcement of the 2018 Michelin Restaurant Guide for France. Top of the list comes Masafumi Hamano (left) from the 'Au 14 Février' in St.-Amour-Bellevue in Saône-et-Loire. Michelin has granted him a prestigious second star in the guide. Japonese chef Takashi Kinoshita (centre) wins his first star at the Château de Courban, as does Sébastian Chambru at l'O des Vignes in Fuissé. Le Charlemagne in the Côte d'Or and Château de Germigny in Franche-Comté have both lost their star.
In a surprising turn of events, Jérôme Brochot who said that he wanted to renounce his Michelin honour last autumn because his customers in Montceau-les-Mines could no longer afford the prices required to adhere to the Michelin standards, has retained his star in his restaurant 'Le France'. Brochet reduced the prices dramatically to about 30 US dollars a head and describes this as the first 'populist' Michelin star (in France) says the Robb Report.
say it with flowers
Château d'Ancy-le-Franc has been glorifying the gardens around the château with spectacular results. The garden on the east side was inspired by the Chambre des Fleurs in the château. Taking four of the pictures from the room, the images have been enlarged one hundred times in the garden and these have been translated into planting with pathways leading to a
fountain at the pinnacle.
There will be plenty more news of events at the château over the following months, starting now with the programme of classical concerts by Musicancy over the summer. At the concerts there is a chance to visit the house and the gardens and see the new additions.
In France, if you want to use your mobile while in the car, drive to a designated parking area, proper car park or private driveway reports Connexion magazine. The Court of Appeal has ruled that a stopped car is still considered to be 'in circulation' even if it is pulled over at the side of the road with its engine off and hazard lights on. This doesn't apply to cars fitted with hands-free sets.
vezelay takes the honour
Each year as the St. Vincent Festival concludes, the venue for the next year is announced. Dates for your calendar are January 26 and 27, 2019 and the chosen location is Vézelay, granted AOC status in 2017. Following in the footsteps of Chablis in1976 and 1999, and Irancy in 2016, Vézelay will be the third village in the Yonne to welcome the festival.
There have been vines at Vézelay since Gallo-Roman times at the end of the first century. In the 18thC, the vineyards covered 500 hectares but the arrival of phylloxera in 1884 almost wiped out the vines entirely. By the end of the 1960s, only one or two meagre hectares remained.
More than two decades have passed since a group of twenty or so winegrowers began cultivating vines again on the hills dominated by the famous basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Vinified exclusively in white, the appellation’s one hundred hectares are planted between 190 and 330 metres on steep slopes facing south- south east.
The winegrowers and villagers of Vézelay have secretly been preparing for the festival for several months now. In this wonderful setting, picture the stately procession of magnificent banners and statues making its way through the vines to the summit of “la colline éternelle”, the eternal hill.
2018 wine directory
“En Route vers les Bourgognes” is a handy booklet, updated annually by the Burgundy Wine Board, giving the addresses of welcoming wine growers, producers and co-operative cellars, events and maps to enhance your visit to the region. The publication is free and is available from the BIVB, local tourist offices or to download online, in French and English.
Gear up for Burgundy
Classic car rallies are frequent events on the open roads of Burgundy from spring onwards and the region hosts three events which should not be missed by fans of motor sport.
The Coupes Moto Légende at Dijon Prenois, a favourite with vintage bikers from all over Europe. This year it is on June 2-3 and it is sure to attract thousands of leather clad aficionados.
It is the turn of those elegant beauties of the past, the Bugattis, Maseratis, Bentleys, E-types etc. at the Age d'Or on June 8-10. You can mingle in the pit, pick up mementos at the stalls and watch the track action.
The Absinthe Trail
The Lonely Planet Guide highlights the rise in the number of small distilleries in Franche-Comté and Switzerland which have sprung up in recent years. The Absinthe Trail has been developed to encourage tourists to explore the drink, its history and unique production process.
Absinthe is an anise flavoured spirit, high in alcohol, which turns white and cloudy when cold water is added. It is not to be confused with Pastis , also anise based, which is a liqueur and always bottled with sugar. Pontalier is the town in the Franche-Comté famous for the manufacture of Absinthe, a drink which has seen a great rise and fall in its chequered history.
The place was chosen in 1890 for the existence of an underground water source used for the distillation process. Then a stroke a good fortune occurred - the soldiers at the nearby Pareuses military camp were given Absinthe to combat malaria on their tour in the Colonies and when they returned, they had developed the taste for the drink. News of this highly alcoholic drink soon spread across France.
Popular in all strata of society, by 1910, the French were drinking 36 million litres of absinthe per year, as compared to their annual consumption of almost 5 billion litres of wine. It became the fashionable drink of artists and writers in Paris until in 1915 disaster struck - a huge furore broke out - it was thought that the spirit was hallucinogenic with the properties of an addictive drug. In that year it was banned in the USA and much of Europe, including France. It was illegal to distil any anise based products until 1921.
Absinthe has been made in Pontalier by the Guy family since 1890 (with the exception of the banned years). Made from botanicals, the flowers and leaves of grand wormwood, together with green anise, sweet fennel and other herbs are used and it can be green in colour or colourless, with a high alcoholic content.
Visit the Distillery
At the Guy factory the beautiful 100 year old copper stills and the huge oak casks are still in use and you can make a free visit and tasting from Tuesday to Friday and on Saturday morning at the Rue des Lavaux distillery.
The Oscars of the food world, the Michelin star ratings, are only weeks away and as always, they are a closely guarded secret. The Bib Gourmand however, the Michelin guide to good quality and good value meals has already been published. The criteria of the guide is that a three course meal should cost less than 37 euros a head in Paris and 33 euros per person in the rest of France.
In Burgundy seven new establishments have been added to the list, shown below ** for Burgundy as published by France 3 TV:
Le Chastellux, Chastellux-sur-Cure (89)
Auberge des Chenêts, Valloux (89)
Le Relais de Saulx, Beaune (21)
Auberge Larochette, Bourgvilain (71)
Le Bistrot des Moines, La Bussière-sur-Ouche (21)
Pierre & Jean, Chagny (71)
Le Bistrot, Chalon-sur-Saône (71)**
Le Saint-Loup, Saint-Loup-de-Varesnes (71)
Le Millésime, Chambolle-Musigny (21)
Hostellerie d'Héloïse, Cluny (71)**
Le Chat, Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire (58)
Au Cochon Ventru, Le Creusot (71)**
Le Montcenis, Montcenis (71)
DZ'envies, Dijon (21)
L'Essentiel, Dijon (21)**
So, Dijon( 21)
Auberge des Tilleuls, Messigny-et-Vantoux (21)
Bistrot Lucien, Gevrey-Chambertin (21)**
Chez Guy, Gevrey-Chambertin (21)
Le Soufflot, Irancy (89)
Auberge du Pot d'Étain, L'Isle-sur-Serein (89)
Épikure, Mâcon (71)**
Le Chevreuil, Meursault (21)
La Mirabelle, Saint-Rémy (21)
La Cabotte, Nuits-Saint-Georges (21)
Le Morvan, Quarré-les-Tombes (89)
Hostellerie Bressane, Saint-Germain-du-Bois (71)
Le Bistrot de Guillaume - Hôtel Les Roches, Saint-Romain (21)
L'Embellie, Sainte-Cécile (71)**
Le Relais d'Ozenay, Ozenay (71)
See the Michelin starred restaurants
widespread speed reduction
In an effort to reduce road accidents, a selection of new laws have been passed which come into effect in France on July1. One to watch is the speed limit on two lane roads with no dividing barrier which will be decreased from 90 km/h to 80 km/h. 400,000 km of roads will be affected.
conserving our feathered friends
The countryside of Burgundy is a haven for birds and 187 species are known to live in the region. A new part-works in French is now available for reference describing their habits and habitat, reproduction, the wintering, the migration, the number, the geographical distribution and measures to conserve the species. 'L'Atlas des Oiseaux Nicheurs de Bourgogne' has taken four years of research by 60 ornithologists. A sister publication is in preparation for Franche-Comté.
More on birdwatching...
In January 2018, 14 bus lines in the region change their name to Mobigo.
In late 2017, the organization of passenger road transport was transferred from the departments to the Region. In Burgundy-Franche-Comté, departmental networks Transco, Jurago, Mobidoubs, Lines of the Nièvre, Saônoises Lines, Buscéphale, and TransYonnewill be gradually grouped under the brand Mobigo, the regional mobility service during 2018. The visual identity of the buses changes gradually,
with a colour scheme Mobigo but the rates and services
remain the same.
Many good reasons to head to Bourgogne Franche-Comté this year: Liam Gallagher comes to Eurockéennes in July; 70 years of Porsche cars at Classic Days, Magny Cours at the end of April; the 900th anniversary of L'Abbaye de Fontenay World Heritage site... follow This Week for the latest news and events on burgundytoday.com in 2018.
Raise your glasses to a brighter future.
Through the eye of the artist
Archaeology has been Benoît Clary's passion and livelyhood for the past 25 years. He has used his artistic talents to draw and paint people and animals from the Prehistoric era onwards through history. In this age of computer graphics, how gratifying to see the real thing. Helping to bring the Solutré museum to life, an exhibition of some 50 of his pictures,entitled 'Le Passé comme si vous y étiez', alongside some of the sources of inspiration such as cranes and mammoths, will be exhibited to Sept 30, 2018.
User friendly wineries to visit with Rue des Vignerons
Here's a new website for visitors to Burgundy or Beaujolais who would like to visit a cellar for a tasting along the famous wine routes in the region but are not looking for a full blown guided tour. In Burgundy the wine grower may be a one man band or a family affair and as Jancis Robinson points out in her article on visiting Burgundy's wineries, it is not easy to find them in their cellars to pay them a visit, often they are out in the vineyard tending their plants. In Beaune and Chablis the tourist is well provided for with tastings on offer but drive out to Gevrey-Chambertin or Aloxe-Corton and where do you start? Now help is at hand. Rue des Vignerons is a website which tells you of the user-friendly winegrowers offering tastings and cellar visits. There is no fee for their services, book online, preferably ahead of time but a minimum of 30 minutes before you want to go. Some of the tastings are free of charge, and the website gives full details of tours on offer and the prices plus a map and directions. The domaines' wines are often available at a reduced rate too. This certainly simplifies life and assures you of a warm welcome. Above, Domaine Famille Picard, Chassagne-Montrachet.
Burgundy Today Cryptic Crossword Solutions
1. Nevers, 4. Tenant, 9. Noël, 10. Prodigious, 11. Bateau, 12&23 down Burgundy Today, 13. Kilometer, 15. Père, 16. Acts, 17. Reveillon, 21. Exported, 22. Petite, 24. A Rare Error, 25. Dope, 26. Events, 27. Troyes
1. Neo Nazi, 2. Valse, 3. Rupture, 5. Emigré, 6 .Adieu Nell, 7. Trundle, 8. Double headers, 14. Outsource, 16. Auxerre, 18. Emperor, 19. Octopus, 20. Street. 23. See 12 across