L'Auberge de la Charme

Prenois, near Dijon

The dessert arrived decorated with a translucent mother of pearl fan. It turned out to be endive. The crisp, slightly bitter slithers of what is more often a vegetable, together with the sharp taste of mandarin orange, and the smoothest of ice creams made a combination that was the most delightful surprise.

Travel fifteen minutes from Dijon, out to the north west and you come to the little village of Prenois. It used to be most famous for its racing circuit, but now you are more likely to come across people looking for l’Auberge de la Charme, the country inn of David Zuddas.

David and Catherine Zuddas have been building up the clientele at the Auberge for the last 11 years. He is one of the new breed of young chefs in France, dedicated to his craft, offering perfection in the food and its presentation. This is what you go to a restaurant for – original food with every detail taken into consideration – and not a sauce in sight!

Once the village forge, here old beams and new lighting make comfortable companions. The atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious. Chef Zuddas has a staff of ten in the kitchen, with four front of house, serving up to fifty guests. His inspiration is Mediterranean with vinegars, spices and oils cleverly incorporated. ‘You can get hold of anything nowadays’ he says, ‘ and here in Burgundy we are spoilt for choice with such high quality ingredients’. He has been to Japan twice to work and is also involved with a project in Russia.

Zuddas grew up with the trade. His parents ran a restaurant in the Paris region. He gained his experience in la Maison-Blanche and on board the Orient Express before going to Arbois to work with Jean-Paul Jeunet. He is open, with an engaging smile, a man of today rather than a future strategist. ‘I am here for your pleasure’ he says, and my pleasure is that people come to the restaurant’. And keep coming, they most certainly will.

Photography by Marielys Lorthios

Sample Menus

• € 25 Menu
• € 55 Menu