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L'Auberge de L'Atre
Les Lavault, Quarre-les-Tombes
L’Auberge de l’Atre, Quarre-les-Tombes
Mention mushrooms in Burgundy and the name Francis Salamolard comes to mind. He is famous for his passion and knowledge of les champignons, and, as you would expect, at his restaurant L’Auberge de l’Atre, mushrooms feature highly on the menu. Croustade de ris de veau aux champignons de saison, pièces de boeuf aux petits cèpes grillés, and cocktail de champignons des bois are three of his sought-after dishes.
La chasse – hunting, shooting and fishing, is popular
in this neck of the woods,
Rich in game, the forest area is also an ideal environment for many types of mushrooms. Tonnerre, the Puisaye, the Othe forest as well as the Morvan are also good growing areas. Salamolard knows of some 20 mushroom collectors who bring their harvest to his kitchen and each autumn he puts on an exhibition and tasting in the large reception room, the cave of the auberge.
‘In spring we have morels from the Vézelay area’ he says, ‘ summer there are the chanterelles, ceps come in autumn, and then the truffles in winter from around Tonnerre.
Francis Salamolard's autumn mushroom exhibition
In this naturally beautiful countryside, the auberge is like a coaching inn in the true sense of the word. But there are no horse-drawn carriages here – you are more likely to find a collection of Masseratis or Morgans in the car park as this has become a popular gastronomic stop for car rallies from all over Europe, all enjoying this rustic, and comfortable small hotel, set in the Morvan.