Food

Mustard

Dijon Mustard

Think of mustard and Dijon springs to mind. This condiment is an essential addition to succulent roast beef, bacon and ham not to mention sausages, burgers and hot dogs. It makes excellent sauces too.

The first reference to mustard in Burgundy was in 1336 when a banquet was given for the king of France, Philip VI. Records show that 66 gallons of mustard were consumed!

All the ingredients were available locally: mustard seed from the Saône valley, vinegar from the wine producers and salt from the Jura mountains. But it wasn't until 1756 when Jean Naigeon, a Dijon mustard maker, substituted verjuice for vinegar, that Dijon mustard developed its own flavour and reputation. Verjuice comes from grapes which are still green at harvest time. The result was a less acidic and smoother tasting mustard. Local people would bring their mustard pots to be filled each day and the pretty hand painted pots evolved, still available for sale in Dijon today.

To make mustard, seeds of the Brassica family are pressed and steeped in verjuice, or in slightly fermented white wine. The mixture is then crushed to a paste, or for a coarser version, the seeds are left in. Dijon mustard contains black mustard seeds which are the strongest and most expensive.

Mustard seed is no longer produced in the area but imported mainly from Canada, also the USA and Hungary, so the term Dijon mustard refers to the manufacturing process rather than the ingredients.

Many varieties are now available from tarragon to cassis, herb to green pepper. An essential ingredient of vinaigrette for salads, Dijon mustard is also used in many Burgundian recipes.
Note: always add toward the end of the cooking or it will turn bitter.

In Dijon, visit the Amora-Maille shop, 32 Rue de la Liberté dating back to 1845. Here there are endless varieties of mustard, pretty pots, vinegars and oils for sale. There is also a museum, founded by Amora - details from the tourist offices in Dijon.

See also: Our Chef's Recipes